Friday, 24 June 2022

Viking Ships and Valhalla

Preamble

 

To celebrate Midsummer and the summer solstice, people in Sweden retire to their cabins out in the country as they revel in all-night natural light. They say that walking barefoot in the dew as the Midsummer night turns to dawn helps you stay healthy; and that wearing a wreath of flowers in your hair is an old symbol of rebirth and fertility. Now you know.

This year's solstice falls on 24 June coinciding with the feast of St John the Baptist. Festivities continue for several days.

Norway Denmark and Finland likewise celebrate Midsummer with their own traditions. 

What better time to turn our attention to the Norwegians and Danes who visited our shores a millennium and more ago.

 

Beautiful as their artefacts like golden jewellery and ornate swords are, no other Nordic archaeological object can surpass the modus operandi of the Vikings, their longships.  A successful quest to find one would represent the ultimate testimony to the engineering and sailing prowess of Scandinavian visitors to Ireland twelve centuries back in time. It would constitute a eureka moment.


Archaeologists have discovered Viking ships in Norway, in Denmark, in Poland’s Gdansk Bay, and boats on a couple of Britain's islands - but not definitively in Ireland, at least yet.  Where are the Viking ships that came to Ireland docking originally at Rathlin Island in 795 AD with potential follow-up trips to (and possibly also from and between) other locations in a 300 year time-span?  

 

Resources 

 

As an interested amateur, I have a suggestion. A new hunt for Viking ships in Ireland is needed. Sources like Ireland's geography and toponyms, together with reference to Old Norse (ON) and twenty-first century Norwegian and Danish records could well, given a fair wind, combine to unearth evidential clues.  The tools of modern technology might assist in the effort.


Norway

 

In 2008 my wife and I visited the country's most popular (and currently-closed) museum the Vikingskiphuset in Oslo.  Apart from its housing of the Gokstad (23 metres long, built from oak at the end of the 9th century and excavated in 1880) and another called the Tune, the museum’s star attraction was the Oseberg Viking ship (pictured below). It was excavated in 1904 from a site 100 km south of Oslo at Tønsberg. 



Tønsberg is regarded as the oldest city in Norway, founded by Vikings in the 9th century which, if true, post-dates their arrival on Rathlin.  Science Norway says that the Oseberg’s excavation also unearthed “numerous wooden and metal artefacts, textiles and even sacrificed animals used as offerings to the two buried women.”  

And all three ships “ended their sailing careers in burial rituals” (1).  

What a tantalising prospect it would be to find something similar (or smaller boats, even remnants, any evidence of Viking boat yards) in Ireland.

 

A worrying report this month from Science Norway (1) reveals that work on the proposed new museum has been "paused to cut costs."

 

Denmark

 

In 2014 we visited the British Museum in London to see the blockbuster exhibition “Vikings; Life and Legend.”  It included a dazzling array of artefacts including the 37 metre long Roskilde 6 dragon ship. It was built after 1025, discovered as recently as 1997 along with other 1000 year old ships in Denmark’s Roskilde bay.  


Exhibits included rope-like chains of silver and gold; outsized buckles and brooches that became status symbols from Stockholm to Shetland.  It included amulets and bracelets some of which doubled as currency.  Many jewellery and armour exhibits, as well as the whalebone artefacts, were decorated with riverine and wave designs.  

The show’s message, I suspect, was that the Vikings weren’t so much or even solely raiders as much as they were artistic and engineering wizards - the dragon ship (dreki in ON) being the exhibition's showpiece. 


I’d been persuaded to attend by the infectious enthusiasm of the Observer’s reviewer (2). His rapturous account had begun with the etymology of the operative noun:-  


“Viking” was originally shorthand for setting oars to water, deriving from "vik," which was the Old Norse name for the mouth of a river or fjord.  Later, in the Icelandic sagas, it became something like "fara í viking", "go on a viking" which came to mean to set out on a voyage and to take part in anything that might follow – trade, commerce, raiding, piracy or worse.”

 

"Viking"

 

A recent report in the Times (3) quotes an article from June’s “History Today” by St Andrews history lecturer Alex Woolf who advocates the cancellation of the term “Viking.” 

 

It is, he argues, "a 19th century mistake that borders on racist."  The Times adds an editorial elucidating both sides of the case.  I’ll leave that spat to the experts.


Nordic Placenames

 

The Nordic linguistic legacy has survived for a millennium or more, reflected in various Irish coastal place names (and also in several of our surnames e.g. ON sumarliði meaning summer sailor).  What is the possibility of finding, say, a Viking place in Ireland which signals the site of a buried ship?  

Names provide an extra resource in the archaeological search for ocean-going artefacts and other clues.  Vik is one example of ON which occurs as a suffix or prefix in towns across Britain and Ireland for example, Lerwick in Shetland, Wigstown (4) in Leicestershire, and Wicklow here.


Ó’Mainnín (5) says that the Vikings coined roughly 60 place-names in Ireland, including (importantly in ON) Ueða-Fjörðr (Waterford), Ueigs-Fjörðr (Wexford), and Uikingrló (Wicklow)(6). Smyth (7) adds the ON Hlýmrek (Limerick) on the west coast arguing that Nordic influence on Ireland’s place-names was more widespread than is currently held.

Archaeologists tell us that most of their evidence of places settled by the Vikings in Ireland lies on the south-east and south coasts. Let’s take that as a cue to examine the lesser excavated Ulster and its relative lack of evidence of Viking settlement.  One source, Sophie Vanherpen, opines that only two place-names in Ulster derive from Old Norse (8): Larne, in ON, Ulfreks Fjörðr – fjord of Ulfrek - and Strangford.  The most interesting point made in her research says that

“in the 10th and 11th centuries Ulfreksfjordr was the centre of Viking activity.  This is seen from Viking burial sites and artefacts found in this area.....  Snorri Sturluson (9) (1178-1241, Norwegian poet, historian and politician in the Althing) mentions Ulfreksfjordr in his Heimskringla as the place where Connor the King of Ireland defeated the Orkney Vikings under the leadership of Einar in battle in 1018.”

Unlike other Norse-derived place-names in Ireland, Ulfreksford has disappeared. Strangford endures, deriving from the ON Strangr Fjörðr which means strong sea-inlet.  Could either of these “fjords'' (Larne and Strangford’s sea loughs) be home to long-lost ships from Western Norway?


Allow me to submit that there are at least three other Ulster place-names which derive from the Viking age.  Rathlin Island derives from the ON Rechru.  Its prefix echoes in my ears with that of Iceland’s capital city (10) and with the Limerick suffix (ON Hlýmrek).  The Annals of Ulster use the ON Rechru when describing the 795 Viking raid as Rathlin’s “burning by the heathens (11).”

Carlingford is derived from the ON Kerlingfjorðr (12) meaning narrow sea-inlet of the hag.  It translates into Irish as Loch Cairlinn. This suffix linn translates as lake/pool.  Coincidentally, Dublin’s original Gaelic name is DubhLinn, literally deep/dark pool. The Annals of Ulster recorded that in 841AD the Vikings had a stronghold (longfort in Irish) there and built the first town (13) at WoodQuay (14).  Despite Dublin’s position as being Ireland’s “power centre” and best excavated Viking settlement, I'm unaware of evidence discovered of ship remnants.

The Provincial name, Ulster, is an ON derivative.  Historian Jonathon Bardon explains that Ulster’s rulers were called the Ulaidh.  This was a tribal name, he says, recorded as Voluntii about 150AD by Ptolemy of Alexandria in his geography of Ireland.  The Vikings named the land of the Ulaidh Uladzstir, mixing their pronunciation with the Irish word tír, meaning land or country.  When the Normans and English invaded Ireland in the twelfth century, they adopted the Viking version.  As Bardon explains (15), Uladztir became anglicised to Ulster.  The place-names expert Patrick McKay (16) corroborates that the form Uladztir originates in Norse.

Allow me to add two additional settlements to the above three places.  Arising from our knowledge of the Vikings’ establishing longforts in Dublin as fording points for their ships (long in Irish Gaelic), this pair of prospective Viking settlements contain the Irish noun long.  

One is Ballylumford, (in Irish) Baile an Longfoirt.  It occupies a strategic site on County Antrim’s Islandmagee peninsula - opposite Ulfreks Fjörðr, aka Larne.  Ballylumford's English meaning (17) is stated as the town of the fortress, stronghold, or camp.  The compound word's prefix Long, isn’t specified definitionally, lost in translation perhaps?  If I may think aloud, could the original Irish Gaelic form, long phort, translatable as ship of the landing place/harbour be more appropriate than longfort meaning fortress?  Perhaps one for linguists and archaeologists to consider, given our quest for ship burial sites.

Placenameni’s descriptive of Ballylumford makes conjectural observations about temporary camps of 9th century Viking raiders, the position of the peninsula exposed to attacks by Danes and Scots – alas with nothing to shed light on my thesis, like buried or sunken ships (18).  One wonders what, if any archaeological work has been carried out in Ballylumford.

The other similar prospective candidate which might have a claim to the Vikings’ sailing vessels is Annalong, Áth na Long in Irish meaning ford of the ships (19).  Could it provide the elusive answer to the big question posed above? Annalong, in common with places established as Viking settlements in Ireland, sits on the eastern coast of Ireland, this one in southern County Down.  Perhaps again, no archaeological excavation has taken place here.

Another Norse word survives in a couple of place-names.  Between Hilltown and Kilkeel County Down sits the townland of Stang (An Stang in Irish Gaelic).  Stang derives from the ON word stöng meaning (20) a measure of land such as a rood or an acre.  My ON dictionary, however, defines stöng as a pole/staff (21).  A Tyrone place-name uses the same prefix Stang as a noun with a Gaelic adjective suffixed.  Stangmore (An Stang mór, a big piece of land - alternatively a big pole) lies outside Dungannon.  Given the inland siting of these Stangs, my initial reaction is to exclude them as potential sites for ship burials. 

Ship shape

That said, a Northern Ireland Environment Agency book (22) reminds us that a Viking longphort named Ruib Mena was located inland at Lough Neagh south of Randalstown.  Its authors Forsythe and McConkey state that the Vikings' success was largely due to "their maritime prowess and many of their activities took place within range of longphuirt (Irish plural) where fleets could be easily deployed." My impression is that these "fleets" will have needed maintenance bases.

Loughan island Viking site - Extract from "Rathlin Island an Archaeological Survey" (22)



 

Among a range of potential longphuirt sites on the north coast, the book presents images of Loughan (Irish lochán, small lake/pool) Island on the River Bann south of Coleraine (see pictures above). These would, they say, have been suitable as a longphort base (its lower portion looking, to me, akin to a boat shape); the book also refers to the discovery in 1813 of a buried ship in Ballywillin (in Irish Baile an Mhuilinn ‘townland of the mill’) bog, a mile from Portrush; and it discusses a “boat-shaped mound” on Rathlin Island (picture below) known as “The Danes Burial.” In contrast to the viking ships excavated in Norway and Denmark, the evidence in Ireland, unfortunately, appears to be inconclusive (22).

The Dane's Burial boat-shaped mound - extract from "Rathlin Island an Archaeological Survey" (22) 
 

Forsythe and McConkey refer in passing to boat burial excavations on Sanday, one of the Orkney islands and another at Balladoole, Isle of Man. Tellingly they add that only a few of the British examples have been systematically excavated. That argument might apply to Ireland.

The Ulster Museum is a key resource containing an array of Viking artefacts.  A comprehensive article by its curator of archaeology Dr Greer Ramsey summarises the impressive collection (23).  These include gold and silver rings and ingots, a County Antrim silver hoard, iron axes found in the River Blackwater, and an 1840 Larne burial find of a sword, parts of a spearhead and a comb.  

Stinking henbane

On the subject of Viking artefacts and returning to Science Norway (see footnote 1, ship excavations), another of its articles raises a topic examined by the ethnobotanist Karsten Fatur about the role of a performance enhancing herb, the plant Hyoscyamus Niger (24). The journalist Ulla Schjølberg describes it and additional research by Annelene Kool, a senior lecturer at the Natural History Museum in Oslo. 

Image from 550-800 of Odin (left) with a berserker, a warrior who fought with bloodthirsty aggression on the battlefield (Source: Oscar Montelius,about life in Sweden in pagan times)
 

Its anaesthetic effect may have allowed the warriors, known as Berserkrs (ON), to tolerate more pain than the average fighter.  My alternative suggestion is that if such a substance was consumed by Vikings, it may have aided their ability to cope with rough seas and cold weather in navigating to the emerald isle and other destinations.

Otherwise known as stinking henbane, this “historic flower” was in use during the Viking era, evidence of which has often been found in excavations of Viking Age sites.  Interestingly for our purposes, Science Norway states that “it has been found in several places in Denmark, York, Dublin and Staraja Ladoga in Russia.”  As a clue of Viking life in Norway and apparently also in Ireland its availability and use here merits closer investigation.

Breaking news

Further teasing news from Norway reveals the recent finding of a previously unknown Viking ship grave in Kvinesdal in southern Norway (25). The discovery was made on a plain at Øyesletta.  The boat is estimated to be 8-9 metres long and could serve as a grave for one or more people. It appears to have been cut into the ground, before a burial mound was built on top. Interestingly, the report adds that “recent advances in georadar technology have resulted in more of these rare boat graves being discovered in various parts of Norway." 

Inspiration for us sons of summer sailors whose antecedents built family houses in Ireland.  Given that Vikings lived here happily ever after, they must have needed death ceremonial sites.

Norwegian archaeologists with a georadar machine

I experienced a huge sense of revelation in learning that one Viking ship discovered in Denmark was built in Ireland (26). Skuldelev 2 was found in 1957 during the first underwater archaeological investigations by divers in Roskilde Fjord’s Peberrenden. It was excavated together with the other Skuldelev ships in 1962.  The record of Roskilde’s Viking Ship Museum says that

“...dendrochronological analysis reveals that the tree used to make the keelson was felled in May or June 1042. The trees used for the planks, felled at the same time, grew in the vicinity of Dublin and Waterford.  Both towns were founded and inhabited by Vikings.  It is therefore reasonable to assume that the shipbuilders who constructed Skuldelev 2 are to be found among their populations, most probably Dublin….it is interesting that the Scandinavians in Dublin in 1042 – which at that time had made strong contacts with the surrounding population – still built ships in a characteristically Scandinavian way. ”

Conclusion

Back in the Ulster Museum, Dr Ramsey concludes that “the Vikings did settle in Ulster … perhaps one day more evidence of where they lived will be discovered.”  Whereas I see no mention in his account of ships, shipyards or even of plants, I take encouragement from his presumably evidence-based hunch of likely settling by Vikings in Ulster.  

Taking his prognosis along with the sources of support listed above provides a prima facie rationale to consider - without going berserk - archaeological excavations in places that may not have been examined heretofore.  The use of georadar technology could assist in the noble search for the palace of immortality reserved for heroes slain in battle. Valhalla.  

It being Midsummer why not?                   

 

©Michael McSorley 2022 

Acknowledgement:- This article is an edited version of my assignment for the Queens University Belfast School of Open Learning spring term course entitled "The Viking Age Archaeologhy of Ireland" under the tutelage of archaeologist Ruari O'Baoill.

Bibliography & References:-

  1. 8 Oct 2019 Ida Irene Bergstrom https://sciencenorway.no/archaeology-history-museums/government-finally-grants-money-for-new-viking-ship-museum-in-oslo/1574616 

    10 June 2022 Ida Irene Bergstrom  https://sciencenorway.no/archaeology-science-policy-viking-age/new-report-budget-cuts-put-1200-year-old-viking-ships-at-risk-of-being-destroyed/2038328

  2. Tim Adams The Observer New Review 9 March 2014 

  3. The Times 4 June 2022 p21 “Historian attempts to kill off the Vikings”

  4.  W G Hoskins “The Making of the English Landscape” 1970

  5.  Mícheál Ó’Mainnín 2017 “Annexing Irish Names to the English Tongue: language contact and the Anglicisation of Irish place-names” Paul Walsh Memorial Lecture Maynooth University

  6. Ibid Ó’Mainnín 2017: p6 - meanings - Ueða-Fjörðr (ram or windy fjord), Ueigs-Fjörðr (fjord of the water-logged island or piece of land), Uikingrló (meadow of the Vikings).

  7. Limerick William J Smyth History Ireland Mar/Apr 2020 “The Scandinavian Impact, A Geographical Exploration.” https://www.jstor.org/stable/26915175?seq=1

  8. Sophie Vanherpen May 2016 ”Traces of Vikings in Northern Ireland”  https://vanherpens.wordpress.com/2016/05/29/traces-of-vikings-in-northern-ireland/?fbclid=IwAR1a42ptQugDscY-2DgMZh8ST5_7JV0CDNW4_Zy9O2RzhT0RTaQo6tIIQm4

  9. Ibid Vanherpen 2016 quoting Sturluson https://www.britannica.com/biography/Snorri-Sturluson

  10. ON dictionary search reveals options: e.g. Rejk=bay, reykr=smoke, rekkr=warrior 

  11. The Annals of Ulster https://celt.ucc.ie/published/T100001A/text365.html

  12. Kerling ON= hag/old woman https://www.vikingsofbjornstad.com/Old_Norse_Dictionary_N2E.shtm#s

  13. Dublin https://www.logainm.ie/Eolas/Data/Brainse/baile-atha-cliath-dublin.pdf

  14. Wood Quay Dublin https://archaeology.co.uk/articles/features/wood-quay-revealing-the-heart-of-viking-dublin.htm

  15. Jonathon Bardon “Place names in the North of Ireland” p 2 NICLR.

  16. Patrick McKay “A Dictionary of Ulster Place-Names 1999 p 144 ISI QUB.

  17. Ballylumford  http://www.placenamesni.org/resultdetails.php?entry=16796

  18. Viking Ships  http://www.hurstwic.org/history/articles/manufacturing/text/norse_ships.htm

  19. Annalong https://www.logainm.ie/en/130004?s=Annalong

  20. Stang http://www.placenamesni.org/resultdetails.php?entry=14666

  21. Stang https://www.vikingsofbjornstad.com/Old_Norse_Dictionary_N2E.shtm#s

  22. “Rathlin Island An Archaeological Survey of a Maritime Landscape” Wes Forsythe & Rosemary McConkey 2012 NIEA

  23. Dr Greer Ramsey The Vikings collection story https://www.nmni.com/story/the-vikings

  24. Ulla Gjeset Schjølberg 2 October 2019 https://sciencenorway.no/drugs-history-plants/crazed-viking-warriors-may-have-been-high-on-henbane/1571431

  25. David Nikel 8 April 2022 Life in Norway https://www.lifeinnorway.net/viking-ship-boat-grave-discovered-in-kvinesdal/

  26. https://www.vikingeskibsmuseet.dk/en/professions/education/the-longships/findings-of-longships-from-the-viking-age/skuldelev-2

     

     


Thursday, 10 February 2022

Something for the Weekend

On My Radar

One of the best parts of the weekend's newspaper supplements is the feature where artists, performers and writers chat about their artistic choices.  Recommendations from people in the know can often provide sound suggestions.  

They prompt me to list new films, recently read books or other activity that I would recommend and which are currently (in the Observer's words) "On My Radar."  So here goes. 

Cinema 

"Parrallel Mothers" directed by Pedro Aldomovar and featuring Penélope Cruz in the lead role is a powerful new film.  Set in Spain, it reflects the director's preoccupation with maternal themes and, unsurprisingly, women are the dominant force.  Apart from its emphasis on the feminine dimension, the story takes its drive from the past and the atrocities of Spain's civil war in the 1930's.  The narrative carries resonances beyond Spain where, even if smaller in scale elsewhere, the legacy of evil acts does not disappear into the earth unforgotten.

The Times 29 January 2022 Weekend Review
 

"Belfast" is the latest film from Kenneth Branagh.  Paraphrasing him, the Covid-19 lockdown inspired him to write (and direct) this memoir and screenplay based on his youth growing up in Northern Ireland's "Troubles," seen as an earlier lockdown when streets were barricaded.  

Whereas people who lived through them can be instinctively uncomfortable with flashbacks to those bad times, this portrayal of survival - and escape - communicates its message in an affectionate way.  For the most part the events are seen through the eyes of the director as a 9-year-old and his endearing relationship with his grandparents.  

With the news of Oscar nominations for Parallel Mothers and for Belfast, I have to add "The Power of the Dog" to my radar.  If Benedict Cumberbatch is anywhere near as good in this as he was in The Courier, I cannot wait.

Television documentaries

"The Brontës - An Irish Tale" illustrates the accuracy of Hamlet's line about brevity being the soul of wit.  I stumbled upon this 30-minute programme by accident minutes before its broadcast.  Residents of Northern Ireland are aware of the location of Brontë country in County Down; but few will know the detail and double Irish connection with the three renowned Yorkshire-born authors Emily Charlotte and Anne, the sisters Brontë.  Their books are classics of English litterature - Wuthering Heights and Jane Eyre, for example. 

The documentary was presented by a young lady speaking with an English accent as she interviewed experts on the family archives both in England and across Ireland.  It was only at the end as the credits rolled that I realised that the presenter, Aoife Hinds, is the daughter of Ciarán Hinds (who played the grandfather in the Branagh film Belfast). 

The concise thoroughness of the telling of this story sent me to bed happy.

"Ireland's Rugby Number 10" reveals the richness of an activity which unites a country in sport with reference to the pivotal position known as out-half.  The documentary traces the seam of talent from the 1940's and the legendary Jack Kyle to now and Johnny Sexton, as well as the illustrious wearers of that jersey in between.  Timely manna from heaven for sports fans, as the 2022 competition launches onto our pitches and screens in front of returning supporters. 

Novels

In December when the weekend supplements began their annual review of the arts, an Irish Times edition invited well-known authors to pick their books of the year.  A stand-out recommendation which seemed to be included in most of these experts' lists was "Small Things Like These" by Claire Keegan.  

Its receipt of the highest praise from Hilary Mantel, Douglas Stuart, Colm Tóibín, Sarah Moss and others meant that this is a must-have book.  Set in mid-winter 1985, it describes in beautiful prose a moral tale of repression which Ireland has been facing up to ever since.  As with the Brontë documentary, this novella's impact is magnified by its understatement and brevity.


"A Calling for Charlie Barnes" by Joshua Ferris, likewise, emerged onto my radar from another of those year-end reviews.  It is a completely different novel, both in writing style and in themes. This one is an American story about a newspaper man and his self-styled capitalist outlook.  I admit that it took me a while to acclimatise to the author's casual writing style - his accent using colloquial Americanisms.

The effects of economic recession, the subject's health and his family relationships combined to present a complicated lifestyle.   Previews used words like hilarious, deeply funny and work of genius, leading me to expect something like a Harlan Coban crime thriller.  While I did recognise its funny side, the tale of familial dysfunction was a bit distressing.

Music education

Evening classes like those organised on every conceivable subject by Queens University Belfast provide a welcome distraction from inclement nights.  2022's winter term classes have had to be postponed for about six weeks because of Covid-19.  

Their return in early spring including my chosen subject  - "The Great Life and Work of Russian Composers: Tchaikovsky, Rimsky-Korsakov, and Igor Stravinsky" - will be all the more welcome. And especially so with attendance in an actual classroom and hosted by a Russian teacher.  Hopefully that will mark the end of two years of "remote learning" and Microsoft Teams.  

Satire and debating

Everybody from cartoonists to stand-up comedians has been having a field day in the last few years poking fun at politicians whose handling of big events could not have been scripted even by the funniest comedian in the land.  This applies to their handling of Brexit (1), to the pandemic (2), and other matters of public interest.  

The cartoonists' artwork and script-writers' lateral thinking humorously expose the double standards of some people in high office.


The satirists' art remind us that recent Parliamentary debates together with Westminster's arcane conventions are not providing a good advertisement for the place which calls itself The Mother of Parliaments.  The refusal by "Ministers of the Crown" to answer straightforward questions with direct and truthful answers besmirches its reputation.   

There are also lessons to learn from what is now dubbed "the Partygate scandal" and its impact on public trust.  One such is that the art of debating and, by extension, the place of democracy in the U.K. are being lost in the fog of "failures in leadership and judgement (3)." 

The pledge to take back control seems like an idle and shattered promise.

My invitation is that you put satire on your radar with the following New York Times clip (best watched on a large screen).  It provides 7 minutes of eloquent rant and comedic public speaking in favour of my proposition.https://twitter.com/nytopinion/status/1489566060328198148?s=12

 

©Michael McSorley 2022 

 

References:-

1.  https://michaelmcsorleyeconomy.blogspot.com/2019/04/brexit-lampooned.html

2.  https://michaelcovid19.blogspot.com/2020/08/humour-for-pandemic.html

3. BBC News 31 Jan 2022 "SueGray Party Report; What are the Findings?"  https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-politics-60201752

 

 


 


Monday, 29 November 2021

The evening economy and Covid-19

The importance of the arts to daily living

When town centre managers talk about the night-time economy, they are referring to the businesses that provide catering, hospitality, entertainment and the arts - broadly speaking.

During the worst periods of the pandemic especially from March 2020 when the so-called R rate was above 1, death rates soared and health services in many countries were under huge pressure.  People were told to keep their distance and to stay at home. The evening economy was shut down.  

In many cases singers, musicians, actors, dancers and others - as well as their audiences - were deprived of working performances with venues large and small shut down for month after long month.  It led to hard times for a whole range of professional artists and performers.  

For the general public it has meant finding ways to be resilient in the face of loss, to deal with difficult times, and to celebrate what we have and love doing.

Arising from the unavailability of live artistic activity, some institutions found creative ways to keep the wheels of culture going in other ways.  From the privacy of their own homes, for example, classical music fans could avail of "virtual" concerts.  

Orchestras including the Concertgebouw in Amsterdam, the Mariinsky in St Petersburg and the Berlin Philharmonic broadcast a mixture of live performances from empty halls or recorded events from their extensive digital archives.  Universities provided night classes on-line.  And literary organisations, such as the Irish Times, provided live interviews with writers, sportspeople, and others for global audiences.

Since early summer 2021 and aided by the roll-out of vaccines especially in "first-world" nations, nights out in restaurants and in places of entertainment began to return with considerable support from the general public.  "Freedom Day" was the ultimate (and prophetically inaccurate) slogan of the U.K's Prime Minister as recently as July.  

The deprivation of nights out on the town has been gradually eased across the continent in recent months, culminating in the withdrawal of most restrictions as winter 2021/22 approaches.  In many parts of Europe, however, as people gather indoors avoiding the incoming cold season's elements, Governments' easements have coincided with a concerning (if predictable) deterioration in infection rates and the Delta variant.  

And looming on (perhaps above) the horizon are warnings of variant B.1.1.529, or Omicron. This is the latest and potentially most infectious variant of Covid, as illustrated by the early discovery of the first two cases in the U.K. on 27 November[i] and a larger number in the Netherlands[ii].  


Examples of summer 2021 reopening in Belfast

Cinema

Whereas my gym reopened on 30 April, it was mid-July before cinemas recommenced business here, with night-clubs having to wait a further 3-4 months.   Picture House audience numbers were initially restricted in July and August, which helped to make customers feel safer.  Two of the first three films that we saw in the QFT (Queens Film Theatre) were music documentaries, nostalgia being an appropriate if accidental theme. 

"Summer of Soul" is set in 1969 Harlem, the same year as the more heralded Woodstock festival. It presents brilliant performances from Mahalia Jackson, Fifth Dimension, Stevie Wonder, Mavis Staples, and many others.  A celebration of black American culture.  What a wonderful reintroduction to the joys of cinema.  

"Jazz on a Summer's Day" was a similar film, set a decade earlier at the 1958 Newport jazz festival - where everybody there seemed to enjoy smoking with impunity.  That aside, the cast list was a who's who of jazz - people in their youth like Louis Armstrong, Thelonious Monk and again Mahalia Jackson.

In between those two films, we went to see "The Courier," a superb political thriller based on the true story of businessman Greville Wynne and set against the background of the Cuban missile crisis of October 1962 and the threat of nuclear war.  Depiction of the latter reminded me vividly of life as a 13-year-old in grammar school, in particular the day that almost became the start of World War 3.  Benedict Cumberbatch plays Wynn with an outstanding performance.  The power of a movie to resurrect forgotten memories.

The best of three more recent films which we saw was Wes Anderson's superb "The French Dispatch."  We saw it a week prior to Halowe'en, when audience numbers were rather less restricted.  A little masterpiece set in Ennui-sur-Blasé (translating would be a bore, n'est-ce pas?) and with an impressive cast-list which included Bill Murray, Tilda Swinton, Saoirse Ronan and Owen Wilson.  Its quirkiness reminded me of the Oscar-winning Grand Budapest Hotel by the same director in 2014. 

Concerts

Most if not all symphony orchestras begin their annual season in mid-late September.  Given all of the uncertainty surrounding the pandemic and consequent risks in the complex task of planning concerts arranging conductors and soloists, it was a substantial achievement for the Ulster Orchestra to open its 2021/22 season on schedule on its usual late September date.

We have attended four out of its first five concerts held in its home venue, the Ulster Hall.  Although audience numbers were relatively restricted for the 24 September and 8 October concerts, the later easing of restrictions on numbers has not, yet anyway, tempted full house sales. 

This despite strong repertoire which has included Dvorak's cello concerto, Brahms's Symphony number 4, Chopin's first piano concerto, Beethoven Symphony number 6, Korngold's violin concerto, Mozart's flute concerto number 1, Fanny Mendelssohn's overture in C Major, Schumann's Spring Symphony - with accomplished international soloists playing at each concert. 

Apart from having to wear face-masks during concerts, concert audiences receive programmes on-line rather than having to buy printed copies.  These sentences from the 25 November concert's programme notes caught my attention - and that of my wife.  They convey Robert Schumann's awareness of the enormous act he was following in daring to compose a symphony less than 15 years after the death of Beethoven:- 

"Schumann's Spring Symphony was an instant success.  His great friend Felix Mendelssohn conducted the world premiere in the Schumann's home city of Leipzig in March 1841.  And on 1 September that year, nine months after the conception of the Symphony Clara gave birth to the couple's first child, a daughter Marie."  

December 3's programme includes the magnificent Pictures at an Exhibition by Mussorgsky and Shostakovich's beatiful piano concerto number 2 with soloist Steven Osborne.  December continues with a series of festive concerts, one of which includes the Belfast Philharmonic Choir, and another being the annual performance of Handel's Messiah.

In addition to its annual programme, the Orchestra presents other events, often in collaboration with institutions like Northern Ireland Opera and the BBC.  One such recent event was the "Fanfare for the Makers" BBC Invitation Concert recorded in the Ulster Hall on Monday 8 November for Radio 3.  Its purpose was to celebrate the corporation's 40 years of partnership with the Ulster Orchestra.  

It consisted of a large programme of music (including some newly commissioned works by local composers) and poetry read by four well-known actors.  It was broadcast nationwide three days later.  This free concert attracted a full house and received a rapturous ovation.  Bigger audiences restore much-missed enthusiasm and a better atmosphere in the hall.



The Orchestra's recent announcement of 11 further concerts running from January and ending the season as normal in June 2022 will be music to its fans' ears.  We read that the Netherlands Government's new November/December restrictions prohibit the Concertgebouw Orchestra from performing evening concerts for the next three weeks (at least, possibly).  

Caution and continued adherence to public health advice during and beyond the festive season, it seems, remain the by-words if we want the evening economy to continue.

Nativity 2021 style

The other concert venue which we have visited recently is the city's 1895 Frank Matcham-designed landmark, The Grand Opera House.  As soon as its reopening after a £12m refurbishment was announced for early October, I deemed it essential to attend the opening show.  This was the West End production of the musical "Six," a modern girl-band take about the wives of King Henry the 8th. 

"Six" viewed from the gods, Grand Opera House Belfast 10 October 2021

The self-induced imperative to attend was driven by the previous big reopening approximately forty years ago when, after being bombed during the Troubles and closed for about four years, a group of ten of us travelled to Belfast from Omagh to see Rowan Atkinson (of Not the Nine O'Clock News and later Mr Bean fame) single-handedly spark a beginning of evening normality to a deprived and damaged city centre. 

Back to the present and with restrictions on audience numbers easing gradually, we attended two more events in the Opera House.  One was to see the Belfast International Festival event "The Great Irish Songbook,"[iii] with Sligo-based traditional music band Dervish centre stage. The large traditional ensemble was supported by a galaxy of Scottish and Irish talent like Glen Hansard, Eddi Reader, Cara Dillon, Karen Matheson, Brian Kennedy and Belfast's Open Arts Community Choir.  That was ten days before Halowe'en and the place was rocking.

We returned to the Opera House in early November. This performance was another West End musical, "Hairspray."  Unlike "Six" which was a 70 minute one-part show, meaning less opportunity for social interaction, "Hairspray" was a conventional two-part performance.  Such was the quality and liveliness of the latter, that it is a show which we would recommend and probably see it again.


The late spring and summer have given people the taste for a return to socialising, dining out, going to the cinema and to concerts.  Audiences support concert and cinema-going as a  stimulus to happiness and to good health.  Sláinte.  Anything that alleviates pressure on the National Health Service is positive.  Nowhere is this more applicable as it is to Northern Ireland which has a history of coping with hard times and with learning how to survive artistic and cultural lockdown. 


©Michael McSorley 2021

 

Postscript:-

Previous articles in this Covid-19 series include the following:- 

Part 1 (24 March 2020) A Test for Elected Leaders[iv] 

Part 2 (11 April 2020) Coping with Contagion, a Survival Strategy.[v]

Part 3 (30 April 2020) The New Vocabulary[vi]

Part 4 (21 May 2020) Following the Science[vii]

Part 5 (11 June 2020) Beautiful books[viii]

Part 6 (25 June 2020) Stone Circles[ix]

Part 7 (26 July 2020) Finding positives in a global crisis[x]

Part 8 (21 August 2020) Humour for the pandemic[xi]

Part 9 (28 September 2020) Holidays at Home[xii]

Part 10 (10 October 2020) The London Marathon[xiii]

Part 11 (30 October 2020) Hallowe'en[xiv]

Part 12 (21 November 2020) Discord and Division[xv]

 

References/links

[i] The Observer 28 November 2021 David Cox "It's not a twist on Delta as people were expecting but a worrying new thing" https://www.theguardian.com/world/2021/nov/27/omicrons-full-impact-will-be-felt-in-countries-where-fewer-are-vaccinated

[ii] BBC News 28 November 2021 "13 test positive for Omicron after South Africa-Netherlands flights" https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-europe-59451103

[iii] https://belfastinternationalartsfestival.com/event/the-great-irish-songbook/

[iv] https://michaelcovid19.blogspot.com/2020/03/a-test-for-elected-leaders.html

[v] https://michaelcovid19.blogspot.com/2020/04/coping-with-contagion-survival-strategy.html

[vi] https://michaelcovid19.blogspot.com/2020/04/the-new-vocabulary.html

[vii] https://michaelcovid19.blogspot.com/2020/05/following-science.html

[viii] https://michaelcovid19.blogspot.com/2020/06/beautiful-books.html

[ix] https://michaelcovid19.blogspot.com/2020/06/the-archaeology-of-stone-circles.html

[x] https://michaelcovid19.blogspot.com/2020/07/finding-positives-in-global-crisis.html

[xi] https://michaelcovid19.blogspot.com/2020/08/humour-for-pandemic.html

[xii] https://michaelcovid19.blogspot.com/2020/09/holidays-at-home.html

[xiii] https://michaelcovid19.blogspot.com/2020/10/the-virtual-london-marathon.html

[xiv] https://michaelcovid19.blogspot.com/2020/10/the-spirits-of-haloween.html

[xv] https://michaelcovid19.blogspot.com/2020/11/discord-and-division.html